In December 2007 we’ve done a round trip over Java and Bali for about four weeks. We travelled with my girlfriend her family and for that reason travelled with an organization: Fox travel. Our own party consisted of eight people, the total fox travel group consisted of about 25 people. We’ve traveled over Java with this group. On Bali we went our own way having Kuta as home base for day trips.

Travel route

Table of contents

- Culture
- Transport
- Travel route
- Jakarta
- Bogor
- Bandung
- Baturaden
- Jogjakarta
- Borobodur
- Prambanan
- Bromo Volcano
- From Java to Bali
- Kuta
- Pura Tanah Lot
- Pura Luhur Batukau
- Pura Besakih
- Pura Tirtha Empul
- Sangeh Forest
- Lovina Beach
- Wonderful rice fields
- Nusa Lembognan
- Airplane spotting at Kuta
- Accommodation on Bali
- Youtube movie of our trip

Culture

Indonesia has a very rich history and with it a very rich culture. There are many rich cultures represented in Indonesia of which for example  Islam, Hinduism, Buddhism and also western culture. Indonesian art, music, dance and theatre reflect this mix of cultures. On Java and Bali mainly Buddhism and Hinduism influence the culture. On for example Sumatra you’ll encounter much Islam also.

On Java and Bali many dances are inspired by old Hindu and Buddhist stories, for example the story about Rama (an incarnation of Hindu God Vishnu) is represented in the Ramayana dance. This dance originally came from India by the way. Popular historical dances on Java and Bali include:

• Kecak dance (we’ve seen it on Bali, Ubud)
• Barong dance (we’ve seen it on Bali, Kuta)
• Ramayana dance (we’ve seen it on Java, Jogjakarta)

Each of these three dances are worth the visit. It’s very intriguing to read up on the dances before you visit them. They all tell a story. When you visit historical sites in Indonesia like for example Borobodur or Prambanan you might be able to recognize parts of these episodes there.

Another typical cultural expression in Indonesia is Wayang. It’s a theatre show performed with puppets. During history the tradition has been also used to tell a message. For example villagers learned about the Island or about Hinduism via Wayang Theatre. This way Wayang was a powerful medium in history while they did not yet have television .

Except for dance there are various interesting parts of Indonesian Culture. After your stay in Indonesia you’ll most likely never forget the typical tunes of traditional music. Check the YouTube movie on the bottom of this page for an impression.

The many impressive temples and historical sites will impress you with there beauty and architecture. Visit a museum and you’ll encounter the rich arts of Indonesia. Painting, Batik but also woodcarving are typical.

In modern Indonesia western culture has great influence, especially in the cities. In remote regions there are still many communities holding on to the old ways and culture. If you have a chance to visit such area’s this is a must do.

Transport

Transport in Indonesia (on Java and Bali anyway) is not up to western standards. Of course it’s not, and that makes it so wonderful to experience. There are several good ways to get around on Java and Bali. Bus, train and airplane infrastructure are okay to use. However there are a lot of things to keep in mind when travelling by these means of transport. Some considerations and advises:

• Avoid the airplane if you have sufficient time, you’ll see much more by bus and train!
• If you take the airplane, ensure yourself the company is safe. I’d advise AirAsia or LionAir.
• There is a good train network on Java. However time tables are not very understandable.- Train tickets can be purchased a month in advance, but many times not via Internet.- I recommend to make a reservation for a higher class carriage, prices are still affordable.
• Getting around by bus is easy and affordable. There are buses to many destinations.
• When choosing for the bus, take an AC bus with reserved seats.Private bus companies are usually quicker since they have less stops.
• Be aware: Driving habits in Indonesia are very unsafe. Take this into account when choosing your bus.You’d think most drivers are suicidal if you see how they drive on not so good roads.
• Driving yourself is not recommended. Pay a little extra and you’ll have a car with a driver. We’ve done this several times on Java and you’ll usually have a brand new minivan and a driver which can also serve as a guide telling you whatever you want to know. Ask around when you meet fellow travelers, they’ll usually can advise you someone based on their own experiences.
• Our favorite driver on Bali was Jimmy, he had a good minivan, spoke very good English and drove safely.
  Jimmy’s e-mail address is jimmytheman85@hotmail.com. You can arrange with him via e-mail.

The images below illustrate typical sights you’ll encounter when you travel by Bus. You see, that’s why it’s worth considering such type of transport over for example the airplane.

Jakarta

Asia seems to have two types of metro cities… You have the really modern advanced and clean cities (like Hong Kong, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur) and you have the dirty, unorganized, messy cities (Jakarta and more or less Bangkok for example). If Jakarta is your first encounter with a huge Asian metropolis: brace yourself.

Several Jakarta streets are almost impossible to cross. Multiple lanes with heavy traffic where no travel regulations seem to apply. There seem to be more motor bikes and mopeds than cars on the street. All spitting out lots of black, smelly smoke. At each intersection and at most traffic lights you will find salesmen in between the traffic lanes. They’ll be bouncing on your window or pulling your sleeve (if you are brave enough to drive a moped or motorbike). The salesman offer you a great variety of items including exotic fruits, newspapers and 1 minute window washing.

Huge office sky scrapers pop up along the main streets representing wealth and progress. On the foot of these skyscrapers poor man’s shacks and huts are build giving home to Jakarta’s poorest. Under bridges along the canals you’ll find more poor man’s shacks. The local government tries to prevent these huts in the center of the city by demolishing the sites regularly. However the people have no way to go so they rebuild their shacks each time. The city shows a huge, sad contrast between the rich and poor.

To do’s:

• Take a city tour by bus, it’s the most convenient way in a city like this one.
• Visit the old Sunda Kelapa harbor, it’s still operational. Climb on to one of the sailing boats!
• Visit the Kota neighbourhood where the old Dutch Heritage is clearly visible.
• Take a picture of the national monument, if you have the opportunity.
• If you take a picture of people in Indonesia, ask them on forehand, they appreciate itAfter you have taken your picture, it’s polite to give them a small sum of money.
• Heavily negotiate any price, on the market, in a cab, a becak, a shop, everywhere.
• In my humble opinion: get out of Jakarta ASAP, Indonesia has much more to offer…

Don’ts:

• Don’t take an unlicensed Cab from the airport, more expensive and not safe.
• Don’t cross the streets without a traffic light unless it’s absolutely required.
• Don’t travel the trains on the roof, people yearly get electrocuted (for real!)
• Don’t stick around big crowds and parades. There can be terrorism danger.

Transport:

• If not having organized transport, take the public train or cabs and busses.
• The train trip over Java is exceptionally beautiful, especially Bandung – Jogjakarta.
• You can take the train in Jakarta, but also anywhere else along the track.Train tickets can be bought at all major train stations. Don’t take economy class.

Bogor

In Bogor we have visited the botanical gardens and a Market. The market was very interesting, but small. It was part of the default trip of the travel company and most likely in favour of the local people in the way they could make some money. However a visit to a small local market is not an experience you should miss. It’s really nice to try some of the exotic fruits, especially the ones you are not used to at home. Our favorite was the honey pineapple.

The Kebun Raya botanical gardens are very nice. This wide spread botanic garden is home to many plants and a guided tour can give you much information about the species. Also some historical dutch buildings can be found on the site.

Bandung

In Bandung we have jumped on the train for one of the most amazing train trip I’ve experienced until this moment. But before doing so we have visited a volcano in the Bandung area. The name of this volcano is Mt. Tangkuban Perahu. It’s not a high volcano, locals refer to it as the “upside down boat” You will see why when you approach it by road. When you finally get there, the photograph below gives an impression of what you will see there.

The area around this volcano consists of rich forests and is very nice for a walk. Along a certain path you can even play Tarzan for a second if you would like.

Around the Bandung area you will find lots of farmland. This area seems to be very suitable for growing tea. If you happen to drive by a tea field where ladies are harvesting it can be very nice to stop for a moment and walk into the field. Be aware not to demolish the plants. The ladies will most likely welcome you as they hope they can get a little tip by showing you their work. Take a good look how they cut the tea plants, and get the harvest in the basket on their back easily. If you feel up for it, take up one of the tea bags and try to walk in down on your head like these ladies do. You’ll get respect for them instantly.

Another really interesting thing which Bandung has to offer is Saung Udjo. At this facility Indonesian children are given a chance to learn and play music. This way they are very likely to get a job in tourism later on and make enough money to take care of a family. On their site they profile themselves as quoted below (see also the pictures below for an impression). By visiting Saung Udjo you support this project and will also be surprised by the quality and kindness of the show the children will present you.

Saung Angklung Udjo (SAU) is one–stop cultural workshop, consisting of: performance venue, bamboo handicraft centre, and bamboo instrument workshop. Apart from that, SAU has an honourable function as an educational laboratory and training centre to preserve the Sundanese culture – Angklung in particular.

It was established in 1966 by Udjo Ngalagena and his beloved wife Uum Sumiati, with a strong purpose and dedication to conserve and preserve Sundanese traditional art and culture.

SAU illustrates nature and culture in harmony, it is no wonder SAU becomes a noticeable destination where people could experience Sundanese culture as a part of world heritage.

Located in eastern Bandung, SAU is a perfect tranquillity for enjoying fresh – breeze – air and beautiful bamboo domination, form the bamboo crafts and interiors to the sound of musical instruments.

From Bandung we have taken the train to the town of Banjar. This train trip is absolutely amazing. People say that the entire train track from Jakarta to Jogjakarta is so amazing by the way. The trains are diesel powered so there are no power lines and support poles which block your view. Safety precautions are not high in Indonesia – so it is possible to open the train doors while driving. This gives amazing opportunity for taking movie shots and photographs.

The train trip goes through villages, rice fields and lots of nice scenery. See the movie at the bottom of this page for an impression, and the photographs below.

The Baturaden area

In the Baturaden area we have not visited so much. We mainly traveled through it. The area known as “Preanger” has some good sights too offer though. We have stayed here overnight and continued to Jogjakarta the next day. The main activity we have done here is visiting a “Desa”. A Desa is the lowest layer of government, the smallest type of village. It’s very interesting to visit such a village. It gives the opportunity to experience how the farm people really go about their daily life. The people are very poor here and they appreciate it if you support the local economy. A good way to do this it to buy candy in the local store (more like a market stall) and then share the bought candy with the local children. Some pictures of the Desa we have visited can be found below.

Baturaden was also the area where we experienced more farmland. It’s a very nice sight to run into a duck-farmer. Ducks reside very well within the rice fields. They do not eat the rice but they do eat all kinds of other stuff which is not desired within the rice field. Also the ducks can use the rice fields very well for laying their eggs. These eggs are harvested by the farmers and sold. Or, the ducks are sold . Some pictures again for an impression.

Jogjakarta: the heart of Java

Jogjakarta (pronounced as Jogja also a lot) is the center of Java. This both in a literal way (geographically) but also i’d like to state that this is the cultural center of Java. There are two main cultural attractions not to miss: Borobudur and Prambanan (see dedicated paragraphs below). But also in Jogjakarta itself there is a lot do see and to do. It’s by far the nicest and friendliest large city on Java in my opinion. There are several nice sights to see and especially if your interested in the local history it’s recommended to dive into some of these sights.

A few to do’s in Jogjakarta include:

• Take a tour in a Becak (Indonesian version of a Rickshaw) and see the city.
• Visit the Kraton (Palace of the Sultan) and get dragged back in history
• Visit some museums, for example the Dirgantara museum having MIGs.
• Visit a silver workshop, bring home a nice piece of jewelery for your wife
• Visit a batik workshop, see how batik is made and maybe take home a piece.
• Visit the nice Jalan Malioboro strip with many market stalls and stands.
• Visit the great historical sites of Borobodur and Prambanan (see below).

Borobodur

The Borobodur is a beautiful Buddhist temple complex. The complex has been constructed in the eight century close to where currently Jogjakarta is located. There is a lot of historical background behind this site. For this reason it’s really recommended to take a guided tour with a guide which speaks proper English. When you arrive many Indonesian people will try to sell themselves to you as your guide. Try to start a dialog with them first and see which speaks proper English (or Dutch, in some cases due to Indonesia’s dutch history).

Borobodur has been recognised as UNESCO world heritage and is now very well maintained after a huge renovation between 1975 and 1982. The site is restored so well that it’s safe and allowed to climb it and discover it from close by. It’s amazing to climb the several levels and walk between all the stupas and enjoy the pretty sights in each direction. Absolutely an experience not to miss when visiting Java!

Prambanan

The Prambanan is another huge historical site. It’s not Buddhist like the Borobodur is. The Prambanan temple complex is Hindu. I actually liked Prambanan more than Borobodur. Probably because it’s less known and from close by actually more impressive. The several temple towers are immensely high (up to 45 meters). Especially when you realize that these were build in the eight century you will wonder how these historical sky scrapers have been constructed.

Unfortunately in may 2006 a big earthquake has hit the region. Prambanan sustained significant damage. When we visited a part of the site was not accessible and none of the temples allowed entry. It’s said that as from 2009 some temples are safely accessible although still a lot of renovations are going on today.

The Bromo Volcano

Personally the Bromo Volcano was one of my personal highlights of the trip. The sights are amazing (check this fabulous National Geographic picture) in this area also known as Bromo National Park.

The volcano is actually inside an older volcano. This older volcano erupted long ago, blowing of it’s top half. In the caldera which was left, a new cone popped up. On the edge of the old caldera you can have a wonderful sight, especially early in the morning during sunrise. You can see the sun rise over the caldera, with the smoking volcano in the scenery. This sight gives very nice photo opportunities.

After sunrise it’s very nice to move down into the caldera, towards the cone inside. The first part will probably be done by car. The last part should by done by foot or horse. Locals are renting their horses for a return trip. It’s very nice to do this small horse trip and you don’t need any experience with horses, a local will walk with you and the horse.

The last part of the climb should be done by foot, up the stairs to the edge of the volcano. Arriving there you will be able to look inside. Don’t expect flowing lava, you’ll see rock and a lot of smoke bringing the smell of sulfur or rotten eggs.

You can buy offers on the edge of the volcano, locals tell you to do a wish while throwing it in. However it’s a complete scam. Under the edge (inside of the cone!!!) there will be people with nets to catch your offers. They’ll be sold to the next tourist ! We found this out in the National Geographic Magazine, right after we came back they published an article about Bromo. You can look it up in the 2008/01 magazine edition.  If you look at the below photographs, you see three volcano’s in the panorma images. The one up close smoking is Bromo. The one in the back is the mighty mount Merapi. The one closest by is the Batok cone.

To do’s:

• Visit Bromo before sunrise. Go to a viewpoint and watch sunrise.
• Bring a thick coat or sweater, it can be very chilly there!
• Make sure to arrive early to be there before the crowds.
• Enter the (old) caldera by Car, do the last part by Horse.
• Climb the stairs, and look into the volcano, it’s worth it.
• Bring a handkerchief to breathe through, it’ll be pleasant.

Don’ts:

• Dont buy the offerings to throw into the volcano, it’s a scam.
• Don’t go there in case of activity warnings. In 2004, tourists got killed due to an eruption of Bromo.

Transport:

• I would suggest to book a trip at a local tour operator. Since you want to leave early, don’t count on public transport.

From Java to Bali

Bali and Java are separated by the Bali Strait, which is a stretch of sea only 3km wide. Ferry boats are available to make the crossing 24 hours a day (at least in 2007). Of course it’s also possible to use an airplane from many places in Java towards Bali. You’ll probably fly on Denpassar airport. Denpassar is Bali’s capital city. However geographically the airport is closer to Kuta, the tourist capital of Bali.

Bali is very different from Java. You’ll notice this mainly in Kuta but also in other area’s. People are much more focussed on tourism, since it’s one of the main sources of income. There is no other Island in the Indonesian Archipelago which is more focused on tourism than Bali.

On Bali 92% of the people living on Bali adhere to Balinese Hinduism.

Kuta

Kuta is a very touristic place. You either like it, or you hate it. Kuta is crowded, commercial, full of modern buildings and many hotels for which you might hate it. But Kuta also is a good place for surfing, partying and shopping for which you might love it.

To do’s:

• Buy 1 or more pare of reef flip flops if you like them. They are cheap here!
• Or buy any other surf gear or accessory, it’s almost 50% cheaper than in the Netherlands.
• Take surfing lessons if you dare, Kuta is a perfect place to do so.
• Visit the October 2002 bombing memorial site, it’s impressive to see this.
• Watch the sunset, it’s known as one of the most beautiful of Indonesia (see pictures).
• Shop at Discovery Shopping mall and buy breads at “Bread talk“, it’s really nice!
• Party in Kuta’s night life, there are pretty good places to party all night long.
• Always take a metered taxi. Agreeing on a price is usually more expensive.
  This even goes at night after a party: insist to drive on the meter, you’ll succeed.
• Take a walk on the beach. Legian is to the right, the airport to the left.

Transport:

• If Kuta is your base, rent a car including driver to explore the island. It’s not expensive and much safer than driving yourself. Your driver is also your guide so this is an added advantage.
• We have rented Jimmy with his minivan. A proper English speaking driver with lots of enthusiasm. You can reach him on jimmytheman85@hotmail.com.

Pura Tanah Lot

On Bali a lot of small temples can be visited. Pura Tanah Lot is very special. It’s located on a rock just out in the sea ensuring a dramatic scenery. During low tide you can walk over and climb up to visit the temple. It’s very much worth the visit. Especially if your lucky to have a bright sky during sunset Tanah Lot is a perfect place to take beautiful pictures. Unfortunately we did not have such luck. The area is also very suitable for surfing. The sea is very rough and on the nearby beach some semi-pro surfers were having the time of their life with brilliant views and a huge (temple) audience. See the linked wiki travel topic for more information.

Pura Luhur Batukau

Pura Luhur Batakau is a small temple at the foot of the mountain “Gunung Batukau”. If your doing a day trip and have the desire to visit some temples it can be worth the effort to stop by Batukau. See also this nice blog of somebody else about it.

As for any Balinese temple you have to dress properly. This means a wearing a sarong and putting a sash around your waist. This way you show respect and adhere to temple regulations. Batukau seems to be an important temple, the regulations (see image below) make this pretty clear. I have seen many regulation signs like this one but never so explicit as the one at Pura Luhur Batukau. Be sure to enlarge the image and read it completely!

The temple is very actively used and it is very interesting to meet a group of Balinese people whom are about to bring their offerings to the temple. Be sure to keep your distance and be respectful while making photographs. Like at many temples this one has a part which is accessible for visitors like you and me and a part which is accessible for locals which come for their religious business.

Pura Besakih

Pura Besakih is also known as the mother temple. It’s a large temple site on the slopes of mount Agung. This Hindu temple dates back to the fourteenth to eighteenth century. A total of 30 complexes on the site and a total of about 200 structures makes it worth a visit. In the fourth moon month of the Balinese calendar an important annual event takes place. In the western calendar this is in March or April. Check on the internet if you can find specifics when you plan to visit the temple around this period. I did not experience the event myself but it should be rather special. People from every corner of Bali come to the temple to bring their offers to the gods.

Pura Tirtha Empul

Pura Tirtha Empul was the temple which has impressed me the most of all temples in Indonesia. The water at this temple is said to be Holy. According to the legends the water has been the sacred ’spring’ has been crated by the god Indra.

The temple is more than a thousand years old and it’s assumed that people have come here to bath in the holy water for this entire period.

There is a lot to see in this temple, beautiful buildings, much religious symbols… However myself I couldn’t keep my eyes of the very special prayer ritual in the water. Most of the people entered the baths fully dressed. Babies would be carried on the shoulder and taken into the bath as well. The bath is lined with 12 fountains spraying fresh holy water into the bath. After people made their offering at the main temple they take the bath and pray in front of each fountain. They also wash their selfs under these fountains and bottle holy water so they can take it home. Very impressive and an absolute must see when you are on Bali.

Sangeh Forest

The Sangeh “Monkey” forest is located near Tabanan town and Sangeh village. Within this forest lies a small temple, Puri Buki Sari. It’s nice but not worth the visit.

However the monkeys are worth the visit if you are interested in an up close encounter with monkeys. Legend says that the monkeys are heritage of the monkey army assembled by monkey king Hanuman. Nowadays much of this royal glance seems gone. The monkeys like tourists and the tourists like the monkeys. You can buy food for the monkeys, they’ll jump on you and you’ll be lured into many souvenir shops. Some might like it, others probably don’t. Since we’ve been there it’s worth mentioning . It for sure does give you the opportunity to shoot a nice photo.

Lovina Beach

We went to the North of Bali for a day to visit Lovina Beach. The area is known for very nice dolphin trips. You’ll be able to go out to sea very early in the morning (at dawn) in a small boat with just 2 persons and a guide. So we did. Without success. Our boat was one out of many but unfortunately we had engine trouble. We barely made it out to sea when some of the other boats were already coming back. We missed out on the dolphins but we did see an enormous sting-ray which was also very impressive.

People say Kuta is known for beautiful sundowns… Well I liked the ones in Lovina even more maybe.

Wonderful rice fields

On Java we’ve seen many rice fields. However no big terraced rice fields. Bali has some pretty awesome ones to offer. I’ve heard multiple people say the rice terraces at Bali are the most impressive they’ve seen in all of Asia. You can find the most beautiful ones in central Bali. Check the lonely planet for some tips on exact areas. When we were there they weren’t as green as we hoped. The life cycle was not at it’s end, but at the start. This way there were lots of water beds instead of waving green fields. An impression is shown below.

Nusa Lembognan

Nusa Lembognan is a very small island near Bali. You can visit it on a day trip and it’s very much worth the effort. The island’s main export product is sea weed. You’ll for sure be able to see the process of planting, harvesting, drying and replanting. It’s nice to rent a bicycle and explore the island. There are some nice small white beaches to relax. With a small boat you’ll be able to visit the mangrove forests which are around the island.

Airplane spotting at Kuta

If you stay at Kuta it’s not a big walk over the beach to the airport. If you, like me hold any interested in airplane spotting it’s very cool to take this walk. Ngurah Rai Airport is located next to Kuta and it’s runway leaps out into the ocean via a pier. You can stand right next to it on the beach. It’s an awesome spot for some good aircraft footage. I don’t have any pictures unfortunately since I’ve decided to shoot film only there.

Accommodation on Bali

Accommodation is luxurious on Bali, especially in Kuta. Finding backpacker spots might be harder than else on Thailand. However when luxury suits your needs there are plenty of places to stay. We have stayed at two places, of which a very nice and not too expensive one (2009 prices are about US 50 $ per room/night) is Rama Beach. After Rama Beach we moved to Ramada Bintang Bali Resort. This also was a very nice place and it was the base for all trips. Ramada Bintang is a short walk from Kuta center and Discovery Shopping Mall.

Youtube movie of our trip

This movie is an compilation of our trip to Java and Bali, and at the end also features some footage of our visit to Hong Kong. However Hong Kong is described as a separate travel story on alexanderhof.nl.